Click to read the biography of
Eric Brennan, Executive Chef
Molly Hanson, Pastry Chef
Brahm Callahan, Wine Director
Eric Brennan, Executive Chef
Eric Brennan says his passion for food began early. “During a 3rd grade field trip to a French restaurant I decided to order off the pre-set, three-course menu. I thought it was worth spending my allowance to try exotic dishes like escargot and duck a l’orange. I fell in love with the food and tried to recreate it at home.”
Now, as Executive Chef at Excelsior, Eric’s approach to food is simple – he lets the ingredients speak for themselves. Having built a reputation for celebrating regional and international treasures at acclaimed restaurants, including Aujourd'hui, The Federalist, and Harvest, Chef Brennan uses only the best meat, fish and poultry available worldwide, adding few ingredients to make a powerful statement. One of Eric’s most noted talents is his raw seafood preparations. Therefore, it was only logical for Eric to devote an entire section on his menu at Excelsior; representing the best of the ocean, with items caught same day or shipped in overnight from ports around the world.
The Culinary Institute of America graduate first made a splash in Boston in 1989 as Chef de Cuisine at Aujourd’hui in the Four Seasons. This led to a 12-year career with the luxury hotel group, including appointments as Executive Chef at the Four Seasons Biltmore Resort in Santa Barbara, and the Toronto flagship hotel.
Brennan became known for creative American cuisine, using the freshest local ingredients in innovative ways. “During three summers cooking in the Hamptons, I gained a deep appreciation for fresh local seafood, and that has served me well here in Boston. Working in different areas of the US and Canada made me aware of indigenous ingredients, and the creative ways to prepare them.”
In 2000, Brennan made a triumphant return to Boston, earning rave reviews for his work as Executive Chef at the acclaimed Federalist. In the fall of 2001, Eric took over as Executive Chef at Harvest. While at Harvest, Brennan’s menus earned a loyal following and the restaurant gained several awards such as “Top New England’ and ‘One of the Most Popular Restaurants’ by Zagat Survey. Having proven his talents and gaining a very loyal following through his menus and The Harvest Review, arguably Boston’s most successful tasting series, in September 2004 Eric was tapped by Managing General Partner Kenneth Himmel to come back to Boston as Executive Chef of Excelsior.
Since opening in 2003, Excelsior has been a top spot in Boston and has earned a reputation for its bold, contemporary American cuisine. In 2005, Gourmet Magazine raved “Executive chef Eric Brennan’s unobtrusive luxurious cuisine—is detailed but never fussy.” Complementing Brennan’s menus is the award winning 600 bottle wine list. Representing all regions of the world, the program has received Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence in 2005, Food & Wine Magazine’s Top 10 New Wine Lists, and Boston Magazine’s Best of Boston awards in 2004. This impressive collection is showcased in a climate controlled 3-story glass wine tower located in the center of the restaurant.
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Molly Hanson, Pastry Chef
Molly Hanson, born in Cambridge and raised in classic New England towns such as Concord and Stowe, has come full circle with a return to her roots.
Molly honed her talent first at the New England Culinary Institute and next at The Inn at Shelburne Farms in Vermont. She returned to the city life with a turn under Jim Dodge’s direction at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts before heading out west to San Francisco. There, Molly flourished under the tutelage of famed pastry chef Emily Luchetti at Farallon.
“It was time to come home,” explains Molly. “I missed the seasonality of New England. I love picking apples at the neighborhood farms, coming home to make fresh applesauce, pies, and crisps. Anything I can get my hands on that is fresh, in-season – that’s what inspires me.” Honey is also a favorite ingredient for Molly, a nod to her days as a child, with her beekeeper father in the back yard. “My dad’s hobby was bee-keeping, so the sight and smell of honey brings me a rush of happy feelings and memories. I want to share that with our guests. You will usually find honey in my dessert menu, either as a primary player or as an accompaniment – but it’s usually there!” smiles Molly.
In 2001, Molly excelled as Pastry Chef at Harvest, creating seasonal desserts reflecting the fresh bounty of New England. Working alongside then Harvest Executive Chef Eric Brennan (now Executive Chef, Excelsior), the two were a creative force in the kitchen, earning accolades for their new interpretations of New England classics. In 2003, Molly took on the dual roles of Pastry Chef at both Harvest & Grill 23 & Bar. This was a challenge well met, creating distinct menus for each restaurant, never duplicating desserts, and remaining true to the philosophy of each restaurant.
In 2005, Molly is wearing two hats again – now at Excelsior and Grill 23 & Bar. “The dessert menus of the two restaurants are quite different – which keeps me challenged and inspired” says Molly. “At Grill 23 we focus on big flavors and a ‘wow’ appearance, true to the classic steakhouse style. At Excelsior we will focus on style and flavor with hard-to-find ingredients, and create more intricate, delicate desserts.”
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Brahm Callahan, Wine Director
Although raised in Western Massachusetts, Brahm Callahan’s upbringing was old world European in style. In Europe, wine is very much a part of a meal and children learn about this at a young age. This was no different for Brahm, wine was a part of every meal growing up and he was stomping grapes and making wine with his dad since he can remember. Brahm’s family bottled several special vintages the year he was born to share with him on his 18th birthday. “They weren’t necessarily the best wines, but it was very special to see how the wines had matured”.
At 17, Brahm started at Shelburne Falls Wine Merchant, learning all aspects of the business from his mentor Paul-Thiery de la Blotier. By the age of 18 Brahm was running wine tastings, managing the cellar and working on dinners with winemakers and local restaurants.
Brahm started at Excelsior in 2006 behind the scenes, and then began working the floor in 2007. While at Excelsior, Callahan studied for and passed both the first and second level of the Court of Master Sommelier’s Exams, becoming a Certified Sommelier. He has developed his interest in small producers who make terroir driven wines. “I look for wines that taste like a place, not necessarily a style. The difference between the terroir in Burgundy and the Sonoma Coast is enormous, so why should their wines taste the same?”
Brahm has expanded Excelsior’s list to over 900 selections, staying current with developing appellations and fostering relationships with up and coming wine makers. Callahan has also expanded the already extensive wines by the glass program at Excelsior, striking a balance between old world and new world wines.
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